From Fear to Laughter: My Surreal Night in Bolivia's Salar de Uyuni

Kat Lawman
Dec 5, 2025
4 min read

Updated: Dec 14, 2025

The photograph looks peaceful. A small tent sits quietly beneath a perfect Milky Way, as if angels casually spilled glitter across the sky. But don’t be fooled by the serenity. Behind this picture lies chaos, fear, questionable decisions, and very cold toes. The Salar de Uyuni in the Bolivian winter is the coldest, strangest, and most surreal place I’ve ever been. Beneath your feet stretches a frozen salt plane, and the stars appear while the sun is still setting, shining as clear as crystal.

Another photographer and I spent a few weeks here, self-driving around in a pickup truck we named Luna. What follows is the story of one unforgettable night that turned fear into laughter.

The Night Begins: Rust, Stars, and Unexpected Visitors

Our adventure started near an old, abandoned train at around 1:30 a.m. We were photographing the rusted metal and the stars, feeling alone in the night but artistic and a little crazy. The silence was profound, broken only by the occasional creak of the old rusty trains and the distant howl of the wind.

We could see our truck parked up from where we were standing, although it was quite some way away now. Suddenly, another truck appeared in the distance, hurtling toward our parked up vehicle. My heart pounded as I switched off my headlamp to stay hidden. We ducked behind the locomotive, trying to make ourselves invisible. We saw two men get out of their truck and they began shining their torches into our pickup truck....

In those three seconds, my mind raced. I planned my own funeral, rehearsed what I would say to the thieves, and accepted that this was how my story would end: robbed for diesel, like a B-list character in a bad Netflix show. I held my breath as i watched them scan over every inch of the Luna truck... we knew we had everything we owned in that vehicle...

Then, their torch lights pointed directly towards us....

I was terrified. I thought, “Right. Goodnight, everybody. It’s been emotional.” I gripped my tripod tightly, closed my eyes, and waited as they approached....

Then, a torch beam shone right in our faces, followed by a cheerful “¡¡Buenos días!!” It was the Bolivian police, just doing a routine check. Relief flooded me, and I nearly hugged them. Fear instantly turned into hysterical giggles. Apparently, my trauma response is comedy...

Train Cemetery, Salar De Uyuni - before the terrifying encounter!

Camping on the Salt Flats: Beauty and Brutality

Later that week, we set up camp on the salt flats of the Salar. The landscape was otherworldly—endless white stretching to the horizon. The Milky Way arched overhead, brighter than I had ever seen.

But the beauty came with a price. I had forgotten my ground mat. Sleeping on the salt flats without a mat feels anything but flat. I could feel every sharp, jagged hexagonal salt crystal digging into my back. It was uncomfortable, cold, and relentless.

Despite the discomfort, the experience was unforgettable. The silence was complete, broken only by the occasional crack of the salt beneath our feet or the distant call of wildlife. The cold was biting, but the stars made it worth every shiver.

Vista panorámica de la pequeña tienda bajo la Vía Láctea en el Salar de Uyuni — Under the starry expanse of the Milky Way, standing in a vibrant red dress on the vast and chilly Salt Flats of Salar de Uyuni.

Lessons from the Salar: What I Learned About Fear and Adventure

This surreal night taught me several things about travel, fear, and the unexpected moments that make a journey memorable:

Expect the unexpected: No matter how much you plan, travel throws surprises your way. The key is to stay calm and adapt.
Fear can turn into laughter: What feels terrifying in the moment can become a funny story later. Embrace the emotions and let them flow.
Nature is both beautiful and harsh: The Salar de Uyuni is stunning but unforgiving in winter. Respect the environment and prepare for its challenges.
Good company matters: I love travelling alone but sometimes sharing the experience with a fellow photographer makes the cold and fear easier to bear.
Small comforts make a big difference: Don’t forget your ground mat! It’s a simple item that can transform your night.

Preparing for Your Own Salar de Uyuni Adventure

If you’re considering a trip to this surreal salt flat, here are some practical tips to make your experience safer and more enjoyable:

Dress in layers: Temperatures can drop dramatically at night. Thermal clothing, hats, gloves, and warm socks are essential.
Bring a quality sleeping mat: The salt crystals are sharp and uncomfortable. A thick mat will protect you and keep you warmer.
Carry a reliable light source: Headlamps and torches are vital for navigating the dark salt flats.
Prepare for isolation: Cell phone signals are weak or non-existent. Have a plan for emergencies.
Respect local authorities: Police and officials may check on you. Stay polite and cooperative.
Plan your route carefully: The salt flats are vast and disorienting. Use GPS and maps, and avoid driving alone if possible. We used a Garmin satellite navigation devise.

The Magic of the Milky Way Over the Salt Flats

One of the most unforgettable parts of the trip was watching the Milky Way rise over the salt flats. The clarity of the night sky here is unmatched anywhere else I’ve been. The stars seem close enough to touch. In winter its dry, and you can see the beautiful hexagonal patterns in the salt. In other seasons you will be rewarded with the reflections from the water on the salt, mirroring the stars at your feet.

Photographing this scene requires patience and preparation: